Roper Dryer Repair in Philadelphia

Knowing which Roper dryer design you have is step one, and Roper dryers come in gas and electric versions built on Whirlpool's belt-drive design.

More often than not, the trouble with a Roper dryer is blown thermal fuse, failed heating element or igniter, broken drive belt, or worn idler pulley. Owners usually describe one of these: not heating, drum won't turn, and squeaking noise. When the motor hums but the drum won't turn, the belt on a Roper dryer has likely broken. No heat on an electric model often means a thermal fuse or heating element; on gas, the igniter or the gas valve coils.

Because Roper uses Whirlpool's drum-roller, idler and belt layout, a drum that squeals or thumps generally needs those wear parts, not a motor. Electric versions lose heat when the element or thermal fuse fails, and on gas versions the valve coils and igniter need checking. Even older Roper dryers are often worth fixing since the parts are cheap.

Muggy summer air means clothes come out of the washer wetter and the dryer has to remove more moisture, so a vent that coped in winter can fall behind in July. We check exhaust airflow and temperature before replacing anything, since a blocked vent can make a healthy dryer look broken.

When a Roper dryer tumbles but stays cold, a thermal fuse blown by a lint-clogged vent is the usual cause. A fix for the worn idler pulley is priced in writing beforehand and warranted afterward: 90 days on parts, 30 on labor.

Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, keep the run short, and do not crush it behind the machine. We see not heating on Roper dryers in rowhouses, twins and high-rises across the city.