Maytag Dryer Repair in Philadelphia

To repair a Maytag dryer well, you start with the hardware: Maytag gas and electric dryers rely on the Whirlpool drive system of a belt, idler pulleys and rear drum rollers, and many include a steam refresh cycle.

Our Maytag dryer jobs mostly come down to blown thermal fuses, electric heating elements, gas valve coils and igniters, and belts and idler pulleys. The calls we get tend to mention heat gone after a long run, thumping or squealing while tumbling, and drum standing still. When a dryer still runs but has gone cold after a vent clog, the thermal fuse has most likely blown, and the vent must be cleared for any replacement fuse to survive. Squealing or thumping while the drum turns usually comes from a worn idler pulley, drum roller or belt.

Wear on the Whirlpool drive system follows a set order, starting with the idler pulley and moving on to the belt and rollers, and the sound usually identifies the part. If a gas model's igniter glows but no flame appears, the gas valve coils are more likely at fault than the igniter. Cheap parts and a long-lasting drum and cabinet make these dryers well worth fixing.

Second-floor laundry closets in newer rowhomes give a dryer a long duct run inside the walls, and a crushed transition duct behind the machine is a frequent cause of overheating. A dryer visit begins at the outside vent, then moves to the heat source, the thermal fuses and the drive parts.

Squeals or thumps from a Maytag dryer most often come from worn drum rollers or a tired idler pulley. The belts and idler pulleys and repairs like it are quoted in writing before we start.

Leave room in the drum; clothes dry evenly only when air can move through them. Calls about heat gone after a long run are a good example of why we diagnose Maytag dryers before ordering anything.