Maytag Washer Repair in Philadelphia

The way Maytag builds its washers shapes every repair, and Maytag washers, built on Whirlpool platforms, include front-loaders and agitator or impeller top-loaders, marketed with Pet Pro hair removal and Extra Power options.

On Maytag washers, the faults that come up most are failed lid lock assemblies, couplers and drive shifters, faulty drain pumps, and door boot seals on front-loaders. Put simply, the complaints are flashing lid lock and no start, no agitation or spin, and water sitting in the drum. Before deciding the lock is bad when the lid lock light flashes and nothing starts, look for something jammed in the lid strike. Slow filling usually means the inlet screens are clogged with scale or grit.

Agitator top-loaders use couplers and shifters built to break before costlier parts do, so a washer that fills yet will not spin or agitate frequently needs just that cheap component. Leaks or odors on a front-loader call for a look at the drain pump and door boot. Lid locks fail often, so test the lock before pointing at the control.

Philadelphia's moderately hard water builds scale slowly on inlet screens, and on an older washer slow fills and fill errors often trace back to them. A washer call starts with the drain filter, the door lock or lid switch, the inlet screens and the suspension, all before the cabinet comes apart.

If a Maytag washer cannot lock its lid and get going, the lid lock assembly has usually failed; the control is a less likely cause. Whether it proves to be the faulty drain pumps or something less obvious, you get a written estimate before any work, and the repair is covered for 90 days on parts and 30 on labor.

Avoid overloading the drum and use the right amount of HE detergent; too much soap causes more trouble than too little. For door seal smelling musty or any other Maytag washer fault, the visit starts with a diagnosis and a written price.